Category Archives: From Van to Camper – The Conversion Process

Catching up on the conversion posts

I fell way behind on the blog posts about how the conversion was progressing, simply due to a lack of time.  It was a full time job for 6 months or so in the lead up to our departure date, so now I’ve got a bit of spare time I am filling in the blanks.

However rather than posting ‘blog posts’ about the process, I’m writing more ‘static’ posts about the work that was done, all of which can be accessed via the menu above.

I’ll post a quick update whenever I’ve published a page etc but for now I’ve done:

Mains (240v AC) hookup

Leisure electrics (12v DC)

Gas  (LPG, that is, not petrol!)

Hopefully they’ll be of interest to someone!

Custom Made Sofa/Bench Cushions

Due to the home-made bespoke design of our camper, the cushions  for the sofa/bench could not be just bought on the high street.

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Foldable Foam Mattresses

In a self built, bespoke, campervan every half metre counts; even 10 cm of extra space counts! And that applies to your bed too 🙂IMG_0063

So our self-built bespoke campervan bed measures 1.90 metres. It has been positioned so that the headrest is at the back and extends length-ways towards the front of the van.

It folds up leaving 1.10 metres of fixed bed in place and 0.8 metres folding up almost reaching the ceiling, thus creating a temporary partition. This arrangement means that we’ve got 0.8 metres of usable living area when the bed folds up. However, this also means that we needed mattresses that could also fold up! Conventional mattresses didn’t do too well, trust me, we tried 🙂 Continue reading

Progress…

So, its been quite a while since we last posted any updates and thats partly because we’ve been working full time on getting the van converted, and partly because we don’t have broadband at home any longer so are relying on our crappy 3G mobile phones and have limited internet access as a result…

As for progress, well we think we’re about 30 days or so away from declaring the van conversion done, or at least, as done as its going to be before we take it to a port and send it to South Africa (which is now our first stop on our round the world trip).

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Plywood lining nearly finished (and other stuff)

Well its been a bit of a slog since the last update, but we’re nearly done with the plywood lining of the van now so thought it was time for a brief update.  We did the plywood lining on the ceiling first, then the walls, then the floor.  In hindsight, we probably should have done things the other way around, or at least the ceiling then the floor, as it would have made fitting the floor sections easier.

First bits of wall plywood going up  And the rest soon followed

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Side wall insulation nearly done

More cutting and gluing/screwing 25mm wood battens to create the framework along the walls to support the insulation…

Not much to say about this process really other than its quite time consuming!  We’re using 25x36mm battens, attached to the walls of the van using beads of Sikaflex and screwed using 4x40mm screws.  These proved to be quite hard to get into the metalwork, so our process is:

  • offer up the wood and make sure we’re comfortable with where its going
  • mark it and surrounding metal/wooden battens in lots of places/orientations to make sure we can get it back where we have it now
  • remove wood and drill pilot holes (1.5mm) through wood
  • reposition wood against metal and try to hold it firmly in place and drill through pilot holes to metal
  • remove wood, widen hole in metal to 2mm
  • put sikaflex on the metal where the wood will go
  • screw through wood until screws just poking out the other side
  • offer wood back up against metal, using the markers and the protuding screws to get it in the right place
  • press really hard against the screwdriver while slowly screwing it into the metal

After several goes, we seem to have perfected the technique!

So, here’s the current state of play, before I go to Barcelona for the weekend to meet up with Cris, who’s out there visiting her family ahead of our October departure…

Wall insulation nearly done

Roof plywood installed

Once the roof framework had been fitted with its Celotex insulation, it was time to bite the bullet and put the plywood sheeting up.

Roof plywood starts to go in

We opted for 6mm ply, which seems to strike a nice balance between flexibility, weight, and (hopefully) durability.  As with most of these decisions, only time will tell…

Rather than try to manhandle large sheets of plywood up onto the roof, we chopped them up to fit the gaps between roof battens, ie: the ones going across the width of the van which cover the metal beams.  This makes each plywood sheet about 1.4m long (across the width of the van) and 50-75cm wide (along the length of the van).  The trickiest area to deal with, not surprisingly, was the area around the roof hatch, which in the end I just chopped into 4 bits to save a whole heap of aggravation.

Any tips?  Well, make sure you make a note of where you’ve put supporting battens, for starters.  And if you’ve screwed them to the metal beams, making a note of where the screws are will help you decide where to put the screws through the plywood, if you’re going to do that.  We drew a fairly detailed sketch of the layout of the battens before putting the plywood up, and have drawn the locations of the battens on the plywood sheets now they’re up.  Hopefully this will help us decide where to put any fixtures/fittings.

The area around the roof hatch was always going to difficult.  We had planned to cut a single sheet of ply and use a jigsaw to cut out the roof hatch shape, but I gave up on that idea pretty quickly and went for 4 separate sections of ply.

The area around the roof hatch was always going to difficult. We had planned to cut a single sheet of ply and use a jigsaw to cut out the roof hatch shape, but I gave up on that idea pretty quickly and went for 4 separate sections of ply.

Close-up of the roof hatch area after plywood fixed

Few beads of sikaflex just to fill in the gaps between boards and firm up the edges a bit...

Few beads of sikaflex just to fill in the gaps between boards and firm up the edges a bit…

 

 

Roof hatch installation

After putting it off for far too long, waiting for the right weather and all that, we finally got around to installing the roof hatch.  The wooden frames for it, both internal and external, have been in place for a while now, so it was theoretically just a case of offering up the hatch, applying sealant/mastic, and screwing everything in place.

Theoretically…

Roof hatch & external frame

The mastic/sealant (IDL99) was a royal pain in the ar*e to use, frankly.  We applied it to the underside of the hatch, no major issues there, but also wanted to make sure the wood was as well sealed as possible, which possibly was our downfall.  After a couple of hours of faffing around (mostly Cris to be fair, kneeling down on the roof of the van) we gave up and put the van “to bed” for the night.  The next day we went out and Cris, with a hypodermic  syringe from a sterile kit (last trip abroad) filled in the last remaining gaps.

Cris playing with sealant Putting on a brave face after a long struggle In place, before the Battle of the Sealant began in earnest The battle continues...

Thankfully it had a few days to settle before the rains started to fall.  So far, it seems to be weatherproof…

Roof insulation goes in

Over the past few days we’ve been cutting up some of the Celotex 25mm ‘foam’ boards and putting them up in the roof ‘framework’.  We spent some time thinking about how best to keep the van cool as we’re taking it to Africa, and whilst we’re no experts, we think what we’ve done makes sense.  To us, anyway!

The idea is that reflective insulation materials (like the bubble wrap stuff which seems quite popular) need an air space into which the heat is reflected.  As such, gluing it directly to the walls/roof means it won’t work as designed, yet seems to be a popular way of installing it. I guess that in the UK at least, reflecting heat back into the vehicle is a higher priority than keeping the heat out?  We don’t have a huge amount of confidence that a couple of thin layers of plasticky bubble wrap is going to keep us cool/warm as required so we’ve decided to install Celotex 25mm foam boards, between battens (which are needed to support the plywood).  These sit slightly away from the van walls themselves and gives us a good 3-5cm air space between the insulation and the external walls.  Yes, we lose some internal space but we’re short so hopefully it won’t matter too much 🙂

I guess only time will tell how effective our strategy will be ; we’re going to make sure the inside face of each external panel in the rear is covered in insulation and the new bulkhead we’re making (between the cab and living area) will also be insulated.  We’re hoping that by keeping the rear closed off during the day, and using reflective window blankets/covers, we’ll keep the worst of the heat out.  We did consider installing air conditioning but its very expensive (£1500 upwards) and uses a lot of power (240v AC, so you need an inverter, which we’ll have, but not sure we want to use it that heavily).  We might take a smaller, portable domestic air con unit if we think it necessary.

Anyway – installing the insulation.  We’ve cut the boards up and covered their edges with reflective tape to stop any bits of foam from coming out and generally to stop them disintegrating as we’re driving along.

Cris putting the tape on the cut edges of the Celotex boards

Cris putting the tape on the cut edges of the Celotex boards

These are then glued (Sikaflex) into place in the rectangular spaces formed by the roof battens.  To stop them pushing through to the other side (into the air space) we’ve glued small strips of 6mm plywood to act as ‘backstops’.  This required 2 sections of plywood, as we’d used 18mm thick wood for the battens and the insulation is 25mm thick.  So, small sections of 6mm ply were attached to the top side of the battens and then the longer strips of 6mm ply attached to those.  Yes, we know that 18+6 = 24 but add some glue dollops here and there and you’re pretty much at 25mm 🙂  The boards will therefore be sandwiched between these strips and the main plywood ceiling.  We’re hoping (we use that term a lot!) that the “backstops” won’t fall off, and the glue on the boards themselves will hold, otherwise they’ll be able to break free and fly around the air space 😦

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words so:

Closeup of the plywood backing strips with spacers

Close up of insulation held in place by backstops and glue

Ready for insulation - main battens for plywood with thin backing strips of plywood

Oh and we’ve used the reflective foil tape on the underside (living area side) to attach the insulation boards to each other and the battens.

Roof insulation installed at last

Insulation is quite a time consuming process but we hope it works out for us ; walls and floor yet to do!  Worst bits?  Small bits of foam everywhere when you’re cutting the mats to size/shape, not using the right thickness battens in the first place (although it worked out ok in the end), tape sticking to itself all the time (pain in the backside and leads to much wastage), and generally quite fiddly, especially in the corners where the roof meets the walls.

Sound proofing

We’re aware that commercial panel vans are fairly “unrefined” in terms of comfort – after all, they’re normally used for hauling building supplies or clothing or whatever around the country and little consideration is likely to have been given to sound proofing.  Our van isn’t too noisy although we haven’t tried driving it since we removed the bulkhead separating the cab and load areas, so it probably is quite noisy right now!

We’ve installed a bunch of sound proofing/deadening mats (SilentCoat) which are quite heavy (4m2 = 12kgs?) self adhesive, flexible mats, which we’ve chopped up into small sections and dotted around the roof and wall panels to try and help reduce road noise etc.  It seems quite effective, or at least, as far as can be determined by walking along the outside and rapping on the panels to see the difference between treated and untreated areas.

The mats cost about £75 for 4 sq.m which isn’t as bad as some of their competitors like DynaMat.  We’ve covered the roof and walls with plenty of mats left over for the floor and wheel arches, and whatever is left will be used in the cab area, under the flooring and/or in the doors.

SilentCoat sound insulation mats being added to the side and roof panels ahead of thermal insulation

SilentCoat sound insulation mats being added to the side and roof panels ahead of thermal insulation