Tag Archives: UK

Pembrokeshire July 2021

It’s been a while….but most of 2020 and the first half at least of 2021 were not the best times to be camping, for what should be obvious reasons. Indeed for a large part of that time, leaving home to go away camping was illegal in the UK and even when it wasn’t (autumn 2020) most campsites were closed, heavily restricted in numbers or hard to book, so the van has sadly been sat outside my house since January 2020 gathering dirt and moss and probably annoying my neighbours.

However now that restrictions have largely been lifted in England and to a lesser extent, Wales, Sally and I decided to get away for a week in the van which on the whole, was quite a painless exercise involving some washing and cleaning etc.

Van doors before and after cleaning
Cleaning underway…

However the leisure batteries did cause a few problems – they were dead as the proverbial dodo. The van has been sat without a solar panel or mains power supply for 18 months or so, so this didn’t come as a huge surprise. Having hooked up the 240v supply for a few days, hoping the onboard charger would magically bring them back to life, I gave up as they didn’t seem to want to take a charge at all. So I took them out to charge them one by one using another charger I have indoors. One seemed to take a charge after a few days, but the other just went straight to ‘error’ mode on the charger.

I’ve had this before with a starter battery (which was also on its way out) and managed to coax that into life by connecting it to the starter battery and ‘jumping’ it for a while, so I tried that. This seemed to at least allow the charger to try and charge it, but after a few days, it still wasn’t looking promising.

So this 2nd battery was definitely knackered which meant for this trip I was relying on 1 x 100Ah battery and I knew that I wouldn’t be able to get a 240v hookup whilst away. However I expected that to be ok given that I would be connecting up the solar panel during the day and we were going to be driving from one place to another (and therefore charging the leisure battery off the B2B charger) every day or so. The solar panel isn’t fitted permanently, as I want to be able to park under shade and still use it so its on a long cable – for now I just push it up out through the roof hatch and rest it on the roof, with the cable coming in through the roof hatch and routed through to the solar controller/charger in the cab. I’ve attached some magnetic tape to the underside of the panel to try and help keep it in place but that isn’t working brilliantly.

Roof with solar panel temporarily 'installed'
Solar panel resting on roof

The water system was generally ok, just needed a clean and disinfection but the filter (Doulton candle) had frozen or something over the winter and cracked its housing, leading to a rapid deployment of towels when I started to flush the system before the trip 😦

Split housing on water filter

Unfortunately they don’t sell replacement housings and I wasn’t going to shell out over £100 for a whole new filtration system that I wouldn’t really need as tap water in the UK is fine, so that has been isolated from the rest of the system for the time being.

I also took the opportunity to fit some additional bed slats as the gap between the slats has always been too large and bugged me all the way round Africa with my backside inevitably finding the gaps between slats whenever I moved around in bed. Fortunately I had some flat pack pine shelving units sitting in the garage which I repurposed to fill in some of the gaps. Not perfect, but it did the job.

Oh and finally I fixed some issues with the roof and wall vinyl, which had peeled away in places as the glue had softened over time. Cheap and cheerful grab adhesive seemed to do the trick there.

The only problems during the trip really were leisure battery related. Despite driving for 4 hours to get to St Davids (west coast of Pembrokeshire, SW Wales) the battery alarm was going off in the early hours of the first morning. The fridge was about the only thing drawing power and as soon as I disconnected that, the alarm stopped. When I checked the voltage it was already down at 12v (from 13.5 ish) so I can only assume that the B2B charger wasn’t working (which couldn’t be the case as the leisure battery was getting 13+v) or more likely, it wasn’t holding the charge very well.

Once I had connected the solar panel and left it a few hours, the leisure battery was fully charged, but again, the next morning, the alarm was going off again and again, the only thing really drawing from the battery was the fridge (5A). I will be replacing both leisure batteries on my return from this trip, as I am planning to use the van a lot from October through to late December this year (more on that another time).

Anyway, here are some pictures of the van and the area as everyone likes a photo or two instead of an essay 🙂

First night camping @ Celtic Camping, St Davids

First bunch of pics are rom a bike ride along the coast…

Looking towards St Davids Head from Abereiddy
Blue Lagoon, Abereiddy
Abereiddy Tower
Traeth Llyfn
Cafe stop in Trefin

On our return we decided a bike ride wasn’t enough so went for a stroll along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path (which ended up being 6 miles and over 2.5 hrs)

Sea mist or something rolling in
Half in, half out of the mist
Same campsite, different pitch – avoiding annoying kids

The next day was a mini road trip, up to Fishguard initially….

Fishguard
Fishguard
Fishguard

… then on to St Davids – the smallest cathedral city in the UK…

Then down to Dale:

…and finally on to a campsite just outside Pembroke, Lower Nash Farm (nice).

2nd campsite – Lower Nash Farm
Lots of room…

The next day we cycled across to Pembroke to have a look round the castle…

Pembroke Castle
Pembroke Castle
Pembroke Castle
Pembroke Castle
Pembroke Castle
Pembroke Castle

The weather forecast was pretty awful for the afternoon so we hunkered down and watched a film. Storm Evert hit the area in earnest around midnight but none of the tents etc in the field appeared damaged the next morning, After packing up we headed to nearby Carew Castle and Tidal Mill.

Carew Castle
Elizabethan extension

From here we drove down to Stackpole/Bosherton to have a look at some lily ponds:

From here we left Pembrokeshire and headed to the Brecon Beacons National Park, staying just south of Brecon itself. The next day we jumped on the bikes again and headed along the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal as far as Pencelli before looping back over a stupidly large hill.

Aquaduct

And that, as they say, was that – a 2 hour return trip and the holiday was over. Time to clean everything again and buy new leisure batteries and see what breaks next time 🙂

Port Isaac, Tintagel, and Clovelly

First up today was the quaint tourist hotspot of Port Isaac, as featured in the TV series Doc Martin and was the primary location for the film Fisherman’s Friends (about a sea shanty group). The weather was pretty rubbish that morning so we definitely didn’t see it at its best, and the cafes didn’t seem to be ready for business when we got there so we didn’t linger too long…

Next up was another tourist hotspot, Tintagel, birthplace (if you believe all that) of King Arthur and as such is steeped in Arthurian legend. The main attraction is Tintagel Castle, which sits on a peninsula and is accessed by a high bridge which Sally wasn’t overly keen on… That said, the return from the island was down a steep wet flight of steps cut into the cliff face, which she was even less keen on.

Just to complete the tourism theme for the day, and indeed the trip, we headed through Devon to the village of Clovelly…

As we were all ‘camped out’ we decided to treat ourselves to a night in a hotel so plumped for the Royal and Fortescue Hotel in Barnstaple.

And that was that, the trip was over aside from returning the van to London…

Newquay and Padstow

We started off today with a walk on Crantock Beach, Pentire then drove on to Newquay for a wander around…

From Newquay we carried on up the coast, stopping off for a quick stroll along the coast path at Bedruthan Steps…

… then another walk on Trevose Head…

… and on to Padstow which like St Ives yesterday was heaving, so we didn’t hang around there for long.

We then headed to our campsite for the night, Higher Penmayne Farm, which was ok but the warden was a bit arsy on our arrival (we parked up and went off in search of someone to talk to in order to check in as there were no signs indicating what to do, and he walked over and kicked off saying did we think we could just pitch up etc…plonker)

North West Cornwall

First up was Botallack Mine which was mainly active in the 1800s but apparently dates back to the 1500s and possibly even as far back as the Bronze Age.

A more recent addition to the landscape came in the form of Rick Stein (a TV chef and restaurateur for those who don’t live in the UK) who was there filming his series on Cornwall… He seemed a bit grumpy when Sally said hello as we walked past.

Turning east now, signalling the start of our return leg, our next stop was the coastal (and hilly) town of St Ives which was heaving – so much so that we felt compelled to put our face masks on while walking down the main shopping streets.

We then headed through Hayle along the coast for a while before heading inland to have a quick look at Camborne and Redruth, neither of which seemed to offer any particular reason to stop.

Having visited Perranporth a couple of years ago to watch Larkin Poe performing at The Watering Hole, we thought it would be nice to try and stay the night there but alas, no spaces were to be found so we just grabbed a bite to eat before heading north towards Newquay, spending the night in a lovely little campsite near Pentire called Higher Moor.

Lands End

After a nice quiet night in the campsite we headed the down to Lizard Point to have a wander along the coastal path and grab some breakfast…

Next up was Marazion, the village closest to St Michaels Mount. Once again we fell foul of not having a booking and couldn’t make one that morning, so couldn’t go inside, but as the tide was out we were able to walk across the beach to the island before coming back via the causeway. The light and weather were a bit rubbish so I have no usable pictures unfortunately.

After a drive-by of Penzance (initial impressions were a bit grim but this might have just been apathy and bad weather) we headed down to Porthcurno, home to the Minack Theatre (an open air ampitheatre carved into the cliffs) and PK Porthcurno (a museum largely dedicated to wired/wireless communication). We didn’t get time to go into the museum unfortunately, plus they charged a fortune for parking.

Next up was Lands End which was (as expected) massively overpriced and a complete rip off. You couldn’t even stand by the famous sign and have the obligatory selfie etc as it was fenced off and you had to pay to have a professional photo taken. Needless to say we didn’t bother with that and headed on to find our campsite for the night, Kelynack Camping and Caravan Park.

To Lizard Point

Today’s first stop was just a few miles south of our overnight stopping point at Mevagissey, a fishing port which is another popular tourism destination in this neck of the woods… Sadly we hit it on an overcast and drizzly day but I am sure that on a sunny day its lovely…

We then headed west to the cathedral city of Truro, the ‘capital’ of Cornwall. We hit the city on a Saturday so even with the covid restrictions, it was heaving. We didn’t really think much of the city but this could have just been the weather or the crowds – the most memorable sight was probably the long queue of people queuing up outside the large Primark in town.

Next stop was Falmouth, hoping to have a look around Pendennis Castle but again we’d neglected to book ahead so couldn’t go inside, settling instead for a brief walk around the area. We didn’t spend any time in the city which perhaps was a mistake in hindsight but we were a bit disillusioned with big towns and cities after Truro and wanted to crack on towards Lizard Point to find a campsite, which ended up being a quirky (but massively overpriced given the ‘rustic’ facilities it offered) little place called Henry’s Camp Site, just inland from Lizard Point.

St Austell (ish)

Whilst we probably could have taken the small ferry across the river to reach Fowey (the logical next step in the journey west), we wanted to have a look around Lostwithiel and Restormel Castle so decided to travel inland first…

We bypassed Lostwithiel initially so we could see what Bodmin (further north) had to offer, which as it turned out, was not much. Our chosen breakfast cafe was definitely on the ‘greasy spoon’ side of the spectrum but you couldn’t argue with the portion sizes, including the bread ‘slices’.

Having decided that Bodmin wasn’t worth exploring much more we headed back to Lostwithiel which was far more interesting with lots of small lanes to explore and a very old bridge (a Scheduled Ancient Monument dating back to around the 14th century). Interestingly or not, Lostwithiel is also the navigable limit on the River Fowey so this actually used to be a significant port, despite being some 8-10 miles inshore.

Anyway, from here we took the short drive to Restormel Castle (managed by English Heritage), which due to covid restrictions we’d had to book that morning.

Next up was Fowey, a small coastal town on the western bank of the river bearing the same name… And very nice it was too! Lots of narrow lanes (thankfully we had parked the van in the slightly out-of-town carpark), a good ice cream shop (or several) and a nice view of the river…

From here we headed west to Par & St Austell, stopping off at Charlestown, a ‘ye olde worlde’ style harbour with lots of old ships, used for various TV and film sets.

Our next stop was at the Lost Gardens of Heligan, having managed to secure a last minute booking (saving us time tomorrow).

Our campsite for the night was the large beachside campsite at Pentewan Sands.

South East Cornwall

After a good nights sleep (safe in the knowledge that nobody was going to be knocking on our window telling us we couldn’t sleep there) and showers it was time to carry on heading down the southern coast of Devon and Cornwall.

Our first port of call was the inland town of Liskeard, mainly because it was in our way. As with other towns, it was pleasant enough, perhaps a bit run down but they had bunting out so were clearly making an effort.

Turning south, we soon found ourselves at the first of our two main destinations for the day, the town of Looe.

The main part of the town is on the east bank of the river and has several quaint little alleys with small shops and pubs etc. The good weather had brought out all the tourists (us included) so it was fairly rammed so rather than trying to get into a restaurant (all the outdoor seating was taken and with the covid situation being what it was, outdoor eating was the way to go) so we ended up grabbing some fish and chips and sitting on the quayside. Good to eat healthily whilst on holidays…

A little further west is the even more quaint, picturesque and touristy village of Polperro…

Our overnight stop was in another car park, near Lantic Bay which was near to a coastal path which gave us good views of the lovely sunset that evening…

South Devon

Last night was nice and quiet but as we’re wild camping we are still a bit uneasy about things – not from a security perspective as such, more from a ‘getting moved on in the middle of the night’ perspective. However, we’ll keep doing it while it works for us, but we aren’t sleeping as well as we would like.

From our overnight stop we carried on down the coast towards Start Point then took some time to explore Kingsbridge, which we both rather liked. This might have been down to the really good sausage rolls we picked up there…

We then headed to Salcombe which we were less enamoured with – all very ‘yachty’ and more importantly, overpriced. Just west of Salcombe is Hope Cove, which was far more up our street…

After a wander along the beach we headed inland for a while, trying to avoid going through Plymouth so headed up through Tavistock (nice enough) before trying to find another wild camping site . We were hoping to find somewhere to spend the night around Dartmoor but didn’t feel comfortable with the places we found so booked into our first proper campsite for the trip, Compton Park near Callington.

English Riviera

Today’s plan was simply to meander down the coast, taking in the various towns that make up whats referred to as the English Riviera – a popular tourism destination as it tends to get decent weather and gained the nickname in Victorian times.

First up was Dawlish which for whatever reason I expected to be a bit of a dump (not sure why) but I was pleasantly surprised by the little town.

Dawlish
Dawlish beach

We then carried on along the coast to reach Teignmouth which again, I wasn’t expecting much from. It seemed nice enough though, but apart from a we just drove along the sea front without stopping to explore.

Next up was Torquay, via Babbacombe and the headland around Thatcher Point.

From Torquay it was a short hop to Paignton, another popular seaside holiday destination but we didn’t stop here as we knew we had a fair amount we wanted to see and do today, so headed inland to have a look around Totnes.

Totnes was actually quite nice, seemingly made up predominantly of a steep hill which is home to a range of small (presumably local and independent) shops, and a castle that we couldn’t access because it was closed….

Totnes Castle

Next up was the fishing town of Brixham, with its picturesque harbour, where we stopped to grab some chips on the quayside….

Just along the coast from Brixham is Berry Head which offered nice views over the nearby coastline…

View from Berry Head

From here we took the rather odd little ferry from Kingswear across to Dartmouth which is basically a pontoon strapped to the side of a boat.

We then found our next wild camping spot – another NT car park in a place called Little Dartmouth, with access to a nice little coastal walk to a headland.