Category Archives: Windows and roof hatch

Roof hatch installation

After putting it off for far too long, waiting for the right weather and all that, we finally got around to installing the roof hatch.  The wooden frames for it, both internal and external, have been in place for a while now, so it was theoretically just a case of offering up the hatch, applying sealant/mastic, and screwing everything in place.

Theoretically…

Roof hatch & external frame

The mastic/sealant (IDL99) was a royal pain in the ar*e to use, frankly.  We applied it to the underside of the hatch, no major issues there, but also wanted to make sure the wood was as well sealed as possible, which possibly was our downfall.  After a couple of hours of faffing around (mostly Cris to be fair, kneeling down on the roof of the van) we gave up and put the van “to bed” for the night.  The next day we went out and Cris, with a hypodermic  syringe from a sterile kit (last trip abroad) filled in the last remaining gaps.

Cris playing with sealant Putting on a brave face after a long struggle In place, before the Battle of the Sealant began in earnest The battle continues...

Thankfully it had a few days to settle before the rains started to fall.  So far, it seems to be weatherproof…

Skylight opening

In exactly the same way as we cut the holes for the windows, we moved on to creating the opening for the Seitz Midi Heki roofhatch/skylight.  This requires a 700×500 opening so we made it a couple of mm bigger, as with the windows.

Once we’d cut it, however, and offered up the hatch, we had a big fright – the inside frame of the hatch isn’t symmetrical, and it wouldn’t fit!  Nooooooo!!!  It was clashing with one of the internal structural beams….

Then we realised we had it on the wrong way around, and calmed down.  Phew!

The skylight requires approx 30-34mm frame so our plan, a cunning one at that (we think), is to have a 2 part frame.  The external section will match the outline of the hatch base, and be rebated where appropriate to match the ridges in the roof van, effectively flattening the van roof out.  The internal frame will be much the same as those we created for the windows, but will have, where necessary, inserts which fill in the ridges from the underside.  So, both will be contoured/profiled to try and keep a constant 30mm frame.  It makes sense to us, anyway!

Cristina pleased with the cutout Inserts which will fill out the roof ridges from the underside Internal frame for skylight with plenty of glue to fill in small ridges in the roof profile

More windows…

Our plan involves 4 windows and 1 roof hatch/skylight ; after putting the first window in, we cracked on and put in the next 3 over the next few days.  There’s little point boring you with the details as the process was fundamentally the same for all of them.

Just about finished cutting the hole for the 2nd 900x500 window.  Black tape is to reduce the vibration as we cut.

Just about finished cutting the hole for the 2nd 900×500 window. Black tape is to reduce the vibration as we cut.

Smaller (500x300) top hinged window which sits near the head end of the fixed bed (or where it will be when we've built it)

Smaller (500×300) top hinged window which sits near the head end of the fixed bed (or where it will be when we’ve built it)

This one for the smaller 500x300 window.

This one for the smaller 500×300 window.

Frames under construction More holes and clamps Drilling pilot holes for another window

First window finally goes in

Finally we’re ready to put the first window into place, having cut, treated and primed the metalwork and constructed a frame to support the Seitz window.  I should add now that I hate silicone sealant with a passion, so am quite pleased to be letting Cristina do this bit, which strangely she seems to enjoy.  No accounting for taste, eh?

The official line (the instructions) suggest a 6mm bead should be placed around the windows built-in frame (which sits on the outside of the van, effectively).  Despite having used plenty of glue/clamps to pull in the curvature of the panel, we still have a small gap at the top and bottom, so ran a 2nd bead around the outside edge to act as filler.  Not much to say on this really – it seemed to work, looks better than I could have hoped (probably because I wasn’t the one doing the sealant), and hopefully will be watertight, although we’re blessed with unusually good weather at the moment so can’t tell just yet!

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First window aperture

Despite fearing the worst, we cut the first whopping great hole in the van today, in this case, the hole for the 900×500 Seitz window thats going into the sliding door on the passenger side.  Not before measuring and tweaking our plan once again, though!

In the end we opted for an actual cutout of 903×502 ; don’t ask why, we can’t remember but its a couple of mm more than Seitz’s cutout size.  We couldn’t decide if theirs included the required 6mm gap for sealant or not, so just opted for something a little bigger. At the end of the day, the inner wooden frame is going to be the determining factor.

Following the advice from others who have done this sort of thing before, we covered the areas to be cut, both on the inside and outside, with masking tape, to try and protect the metal a bit and, as it turns out, catch quite a lot of the metal filings that we were about to produce.

We opted to cut from the inside out – not sure in hindsight if this was the right move, as quite a lot of the debris from cutting ended up inside the van.  I don’t know if it would have done otherwise, as we couldn’t see the filings on the floor outside the van afterwards.

To start with, we cut several pilot holes using the smallest drill we had available and gradually opened them up to accommodate the hole cutter’s central drill.  We had 4 of these holes, one in each corner, and one about midway along each edge to try and make it easier to get the jigsaw in place.

Pilot holes expanded using increasing drill sizes and then a hole cutter (22mm diameter) used to create the corner curves and access holes for jigsaw

Pilot holes expanded using increasing drill sizes and then a hole cutter (22mm diameter) used to create the corner curves and access holes for jigsaw

Then it was just a case of several deep breaths (the damage has been done by now anyway) and slowly and steadily cutting along the lines, trying to keep to them as closely as possible.  As the panel began to vibrate excessively during the cutting, we stuck loads of gaffer tape on them to try and reduce that, and allow us to see the line, rather than something resembling a guitar string thats just been plucked…!

Eventually we finished cutting and out popped the (rather sharp edged) panel – actually not as bad as we’d feared and quite a sense of achievement and relief!  Several quick checks with a tape measure added to that sense of relief 🙂

Cris looking quite pleased with the outcome

Cris looking quite pleased with the outcome

We decided to dab a bit of rust treatment/prevention onto the edges and then prime them, as much as you can anyway being 1mm thick at best.  That took a few hours to dry properly which gave us time to start adding the 25mm thick frame battens we’d cut beforehand.  We had tried building a standalone frame but our woodworking knowledge, skills and equipment was way too primitive for such things, so opted to just cut and glue each side independently.  The downside to that approach is that each one takes several hours to dry.  The panel also had a distinct curvature which we wanted to ‘correct’ as the Seitz windows are designed to be mounted on flat panels.  We couldn’t face the prospect of trying to sand/file/plane the frames to level off the curve etc, so decided to just pull in the curve using lots of clamps and Sikaflex glue.

Hopefully that should be enough to pull in the curvature of the panel

Hopefully that should be enough to pull in the curvature of the panel

Once we’d glued our first batten, there was little more we could do as all our clamps were in use, so we continued with rust treatment here and there on the inside and started to remove the plywood floor.  We didn’t make much progress on this though as most of the screws were rusted solid, so had to leave them soaking in good ol’ WD-40 overnight.

All in all, a productive, slightly scary, day, and as many have said before, cutting the hole in the van isn’t anywhere near as bad as you might think.  Just measure several (hundred) times and cut maybe on the side of caution – you can always make the hole bigger, after all.

Rust treatment and window template

As with many commercial vehicles, ours had a bit of damage on the inside and outside, mostly just knocks and scratches but as they haven’t been dealt with by the previous owners, some rust has developed on the exposed metal in places.

We want this vehicle to last as long as possible – certainly for the 12-18 months or so we’re going to be away in it, and hopefully much longer than that, so we’ll be doing our best to get rid of the rust and prevent its return before covering the walls etc with insulation and new plywood.

So today, with the sun beating down on us, we set about sanding/scraping away as much loose rust and pitted areas as we could from the interior of the vehicle panels, having wiped it all down with meths beforehand.  We then wiped it down again and coated all the exposed/damaged areas with an anti-rust treatment called Kurust (Hammerite?) and left it to work overnight.

In the meantime we had a window template to create – we’re going to have 2 large windows, one on either side, just behind the cab area (Seitz S4 windows). We’re a bit confused though about the actual size of the cutout required.  According to the Seitz (Dometic) website, the cutout for our windows (900×500) should be 901 x 499mm.  However their installation instructions also say you should allow 6mm on both axis for flexible sealant – but don’t tell you if they’ve already included this 6mm in their dimensions.  So to try and answer this, we’ve measured a million times and come up with a million and one different answers as to how big the hole should be.  We’ve created template out of cardboard and paper, placed them over the window, tried to measure the gap to make sure we’ve left 6mm spare, but still aren’t sure.  So we have just settled one one set of dimensions, which are slightly bigger than the official ones, and transferred the template/dimensions to masking tape on the inside of the sliding door.  Once we’ve got out courage up, we’ll be hacking out a big hole.  Not today though!